Andes to Amazon
Ibike Ecuador
 
Dispatch 8 - Palora

 

Looking at a contour map you would think that it is flat between Puyo and Palora.  The road follows a ridge that is above 1000 meters, but never gets above 1100 meters.  The road drops down to 900 meters to cross the Rio Pastaza and never gets back above 950 meters going to Palora, which is a hair above 900 meters.  But the road is not flat.  It undulates through forests and past farms and villages.  By and large the area is sparsely populated.  At one point the road nears the edge of the ridge and you can look down in to the Amazon basin.  There is literally forest for as far as the eye can see.

Remind me again what was significant about Palora!

OK, there is nothing magnificently significant about Palora, but that doesn't mean that there are things of interest.  Palora is a very quiet, rainforest town.  Actually there has been so much clearing in the area, spurred on by national policies that people could lay claim to forest that they cleared, that Palora is now an edge-of-the-rainforest town.  On one side of town is a large tea plantation, which from a distance looks like a fuzzy green table about 40 inches high.  The commercial district in town is about four blocks long.  Though none of the shops are very large they offer an amazingly wide range of goods and services.  If you were going into relatively urban Palora, from the bush for a day, you could buy a can opener, fix your plow, get a hair cut and rent some computer time, before heading back to the more tranquil farming life in the forest.

The hotel was bigger and better than one might expect for the location.  The rooms were self-contained with showers and toilets and large enough to completely empty the panniers and hang the damp contents.

If it is gum boots you are looking for, for all I know there is no better selection of brands and sizes anywhere else on earth than Palora.  Everyone in our group got a pair.  We were advised that the recent rains would make the trails very muddy.  Anyway no one in the group had owned a pair of good gum boots at any other time in our lives, they only cost about $6, and they were made in Ecuador.  What a better and more unique souvenir of the rainforest could there be?

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