![]() | ||
|
Tunisia
Odyssey: Eden to Oasis | ||
|
Dispatch 14 - Tunis | ||
|
.
Past the hills and back on to the alluvial plains, some of the grace is retain in the
orange groves and vineyards that are the backbone of the agriculture economy of the
Soliman area. At the town of Bordj Cedra any aesthetic ends pretty abruptly. It is one form or
another the route is a highway and strip-city for the last 20 km (12 miles) into town. The
are a couple consumer oriented commercial centers with street trees, sidewalks, people and
traffic signals which
I did have an interesting encounter on the last
section. For about 10 kilometers (a half hour) I was riding pretty much in tandem with a
Tunisian cyclist. That in itself is unique because he was clearly not a racer and there is
virtually no utilitarian cycling around Tunis. Eventually we started a conversation that
continued intermittently, traffic permitting, for several kilometers: He asked about me, the trip and my home. He was happy to meet an American. He offered that we has something in common, we were both ride "with a
purpose", but the purpose was very different. He did the ride three times a week. I
said, "It is nice to be cycling, regardless of the purpose." He offered that he was going "to check in." Well, I guess that is different
from why I am cycling. "Was that for business," I asked. "It was with the police," he replied, not saying that it wasnt
business. "Oh," I said. Not quite sure what to think. And we rode single file for a
while to handle some congestion. When the conversation resumed he offer that he was a
student in the early 1990s. I knew this was relevant to his early comments, but I
couldnt reconstruct what I needed to about Tunisian history to make sense of it, so
I asked what he had been studying. "Medicine." He was on his way to becoming a doctor. But that didnt give
me any clue to the puzzle. After a pause he offered that he had been arrested in the
student demonstrations. Now it was starting to make sense, but I couldnt remember
the details of the 1992 disturbances. Had those demonstration been because of the
democracy movement or by labor for workers rights, or something else? "What was the topic?" I asked. "Islamic fundamentalism." "Oh, lovely," I thought. Not the usual kind of person I would expect to
befriend me or that I, myself, would search out. As a group they have a reputation of
being very anti-America, to the point of committing violent acts against Americans, but he
did show any animosity. I knew I still didnt have the full story, though wasnt
sure if I wanted to ask as I imagined the worst. But I didnt have to ask. As we rode
along he provide the missing details: He had been arrested in the demonstrations, was
imprisoned for five years, had been released a year ago, had been able to resume his
education and had to check in with a specific police bureau. A trip which he made by
bicycle. He seemed willing enough to talk so I decided to try a bolder question: "Did he
think that Islamic fundamentalism in Tunisia would go the way of Islamic fundamentalism in
Algeria?" (Reports from Algeria are that Islamic fundamentalist militants have
slaughtered about 12,000 civilians, in a virtual civil war.) "No!" There was a pause and a few more revolutions of the crank, but my
friend wasnt particularly pensive. I gave him a look asking for more explanation.
"The Algerian fundamentalists are militant, the Tunisian are political," he
explained. But I clearly remember that the Algerians had only been political until
an election that they were poised to win was cancelled by the military. I also didnt
feel like pursuing the line of questioning. We rode along together for a couple kilometers
more have intermittent lighter conversation before he indicate he would have to be turning
off. We wished each other well and I wonder what I would be missing not have tried harder
to develop a friendship with some who at least once was active in the fundamentalist
movement
. Once at the hotel, things wound down; bike were packed for shipping, final souvenirs
were purchased and last minute business was transacted. All that was left was the final
awards dinner. Tour Awards:
In addition we reminisced about the best of the trip: best hotel, best meal, best ride, etc. It was a great trip. |
Addendum One way to add some
civility to the chaos of returning to the city is to stop for a glass of
traditional mint tea with pine nuts. Here we are being elegantly served
A popular
activity once we return to Tunis is souvenir shopping. One uniquely
Tunisian item is the chechia (red felt hat). It is all that much
better as a souvenir because you can watch | |
|
| ||
|
|
"Hosted by
ThinkHost - earth friendly web hosting"
|