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El Corazon de Cuba
Atenas de Cuba People-to-People Program

Dispatch 4 - Trinidad

 

Leaving Cienfuego words like Wisconsin, Scotland and Virginia were used to describe the farmland. I don't recall any ranches in those areas being dotted with royal palms, but other than that the comparison might have some validity. The farms are lush, rolling and working. The livestock are cows, horses, pigs, chickens and small ruminants.

Click to enlargeTowards Trinidad the road gets closer to the sea. Generally the shore is a limestone platform sitting above the water. Occasionally there are inlets, which are more likely to have a beaches. At the mouth of the Yaguanabo River is a nice motel. Besides its pleasant location and ambience, it has solar water heaters. Click to enlargeThough Cuba tends to have various energy shortages, use of solar and other alternative energy sources is not wide spread. Compact florescent bulbs tend to be the most common example of energy conservation. 

The old section of Trinidad intends to be quaint. It is trying to maintain its colonial character so the streets are cobblestone and the roofs are constructed with red tiles, though the skyline is marred by power poles and electric lines. It is also dominated by tourists so there are lots of small hostel-type hotels, a number of music clubs and assorted paladars (privaterestaurants specializing in meals that are more than rice and beans.) Click to enlarge Except for the staff, Cubans clients are rare at these establishments. Because of Trinidad's orientation towards tourism you can feel some of the apartheid that hovers around tourism in Cuba. The museum in Trinidad is another converted private mansion. From the roof you can view the skyline of Trinidad, which is dominated by church steeples.

Click to enlargeWhile not unique to Trinidad, this is where we got our best look at Santaria. Santaria is a form of Christianity that merges similar West African deities and saints brought by the slaves with the saints of Christianity. The shrines draw from both traditions and are full of symbolism. Santaria has a corps of learned priest and priestess who lead other believers in the practice of the religion.  At the shrine we visited the priest who was very accommodating in answering our questions and explaining the elements of the shrine.  Most of the objects had direct symbolism and meaning.

Click to enlargeTrinidad is also were we had an opportunity to take a horseback ride and hike to a waterfall.  Horses are common in rural Cuba, generally as work animals rather than recreation equipment.  The horses we had were very mild mannered and well behaved.  The hike to the waterfall, along the river was a verdant delight. TheClick to enlargewaterfall is set in a lush glen where the river falls over the edge of a limestone cliff.  Most of our group availed themselves of the opportunity for a swim at the waterfall.  The water was warm enough to stay in for a while and still enjoy it.  One of the fun and unique features of this waterfall is you can swim into a cave behind the waterfall and then swim out through the cascade.  I looked for bats and other creatures in the cave but didn't see any.  None-the-less it was a novel experience.

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