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  Pinar del Rio
Atenas de Cuba People-to-People Program

 
  Dispatch 5 - El Cupey

 

 
  This is a rest day so the start was more leisurely than usual (Cubans don’t seem to be morning people). First we ride into St Lucia, a port town surrounded by potential economic activity: gold mine, sugar factory, battery acid factory, dry docks and other industrial buildings. The only one that seemed to be active is an open pit gold mine. The town itself was more like a village. It had the requisite guarapo vendor.

Buying a box of cookies tells another part of the story of Cuba’s economy – the biscuits are from Argentina. Cuba used to export sugar to the Soviet Union and buy back finished products. I guess they now sell sugar to Argentina. It is startling how little vertical integration there is in the Cuba economy. Like so many former colonies they produce primary goods, but do very little subsequent processing of their production.

Click to enlarge The beach of Cayo Jutias is white, narrow and a bit underwhelming. Cuba’s reputation for beaches was not made in this part of Pinar del Rio. One of the state tourist corporations things good enough for some investment.

Click to enlargeThey have built new beachfront cabanas and a large covered bar/dining area. Though a heavy weekend of traffic now generates about ten tourist vehicles a day out to the island, somebody must expect more because there is now several miles of causeway out to the island. A second attraction of the island is a 90-year-old lighthouse. It features a small museum and the keeper is happy to escort you to the top for a view and his kids are happy to have some new faces the through their baseball to.

Back at the Campismo we had an hour-long talk with a journalist for the government newspaper from the region. The tables were turned a bit as she answered questions about the economy, society, the Pope's visit, government and a range of other topics we raised. There was nothing that wasn’t frank about the conversation. A most pleasurable education.

This Campismo Popular also seems to be the site for the local Saturday night youth dance. With the volume at its usually throbbing loudest, the kids gyrated, danced and laughed until well past my bedtime. The Cubans love their music and dance.

 

 
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