Ibike Korea People-to-People Program
Photo essay: Seoul
Walking Tour
Sample the sights of the ancient and modern capital of South Korea.
Points of Interest: Lots of temples and historic sites, museums and markets.
rubberized to make it more comfortable for
walkers (left). People
had already gathered in the park for a session of Tai-chi and stretching.We stopped for breakfast once we got into the central city. From there we walked.
The
best way to get across Seoul is on the extensive subway system. It is clean,
smooth, comfortable, there is no graffiti. and on Sunday morning it is very
spacious. 
Emerging
from the subway system our first stop is Seoul Railroad Station. The old station
was constructed in 1926, by
the Japanese, is a Renaissance-style building with a Byzantine dome. A
multi-year restoration project was completed in 2011. The initial development of
the Korean rail system was started during the Japanese occupation. The
system now includes a comprehensive system of local, regional and high speed
inter-city trains.
The
new station is a post-modern glass building. If you are looking for Korea's
bullet train this is where to look. Seoul Station is the northern terminus of
the KTX, the Korean bullet train.
In recent years Seoul has made an effort to be more bicycle-friendly. A
number of major arterials now have bike lanes, but the central city still has a
ways to go before it is family-friendly for bicycling.
(Click here for more details on the non-motorized infrastructure in Korea.)
Perhaps to show
that they are in the spirit there is an installation of colorful, energetic, and fun
bicycle art. The sculptures appear to be by
David
Gerstein, an Israeli
artist and
sculpture, who has similar pieces in other
public
spaces around the world.
The pieces in Seoul are: (upper left): "Flower Girl Bike Rider", "Ladder Man"
and "Armstrong", (lower
left) "Troubadour
Bike Rider" and "Weekend Ride", and (right) "Country Rider". Also a part
of the Seoul installation, but not posted here are "Spring Bicycle Riders"
and "Rider in Euphoria".
Namdaemun (South Gate)
is appropriately named because it was literally the south gate to the city.
It is National Treasure number 1. The city has
long since engulfed it, but that hardly diminishes its elegance. In 2004, it sat inside a traffic circle (left) with five
lanes of traffic continually swirling around it. By 2006 it had been "rescued"
(right). Traffic is diverted to one side, pedestrians have access to the
gate and there is a regular "changing of the guard" ceremony.
Ironically its 'rescue' may have lead to its demise because in 2010 it was torched
by an arsonist. To find, collect and properly cure the old growth timber
to authentic restore the structure will take several years.
Just
inside the gate is Namdaemun Market. It seems to have
everything. Among the clearly identifiable sections are the fish arcade,
vegetable arcade, jewelry arcade, ginseng arcade, clock arcade and folk craft
arcade to name a few.
If
a shop has one of something it seemed to have an enormous number of
that item. In one shop (left) it was all about head bans and hair accessories, with the dominate
color of pink. Other shops would specialized in perfume, or shoes, or
socks, or belts, or hats or watches, or phones, or knives, or table settings, or crafts, or
ginseng and tea, or trinkets and souvenirs, and the list goes on.
There
were several shops that
grind pepper in enormous quantities so that people don't run short of gochu, the main
spice for kimchi (left).
Many shops have dried fish -- bagged and hanging -- ready for sale (right).
An now, across from the bank building is Post Tower. It is one of a growing number of highly designed skyscrapers in Seoul with multiple angles, curves and planes that probably couldn't have been successfully designed and build prior to access to powerful computers.
Deoksugung
(Palace)
is a green sanctuary in the bustling city. It was originally (1454) a royal villa, but in 1593, when the Japanese burned the
main
palace, this became a temporary palace. From 1623 to 1897 it was not used as
a palace. After being forced to give up his throne in 1910,
again by the Japanese, Emperor Gojong
secluded himself here until his death in 1919. It is the smallest and
probably simplest palace in Seoul. One item of more interest is a sun dial
(upper right), with instructions.
There is a colorful changing of the guard ceremony at 10:00, 14:00 and 15:00 (subject to change.), except on Mondays and holidays.
It is a bit of cultural dissonance when the Joseon period royal guard turns the corner and marches in front of the Dunkin Donut shop.
During one visit, this brightly, traditionally attired, all-girl marching, horn, flute, shell and drum corps joined other traditionally attired groups for a parade through Seoul, but I never learned the occasion.
The
Anglican Church, in Seoul, was the first church building in Asia to be built in
typical Romanesque style. The apse and altar are Sicilian-style. The image, from
left to right, are: St Stephen the Martyr, St John the Evangelist, St Mary, The
Prophet Isaiah, and St Nicholas. Jesus Christ is above. The organ
has 20 stops and 1450 pipes.
A
very inspiring pedestrian
and environmental quality
project in the heart of Seoul is the restoration of Cheonggye-cheon (stream).
When Seoul was just a village and small town, kids played in the stream and women did laundry on its banks.
After the Korean War people immigrating from the countryside and seeking a better life in Seoul, built makeshift
houses along the stream. This had a heavy
impact on the stream and filled it with garbage.In the 1960's a project to encase the polluted stream and build an elevated highway over it became the measure of progress of the day.
Forty years later local priorities changed
again, this time placing greater
values on aesthetics and environment. The day lighting of the stream
and installation of riverside walks, waterfalls and public art was completed in October 2005. The water is now crystal clear.
Each block the stream and river bank change character. Along the walkways
are exhibits and art installation the commemorate the history of the country,
city and stream.
Frequently at the plaza at the head of the restoration and in open spaces
along the way, during the warmer months, there are special programs, exhibits
and installations.
Prominently
in the median of Sejong-ro, there are larger than life statues to the larger
than life Korean national heroes Admiral Lee Seun Sin and Emperor Sejongno Road.
Admiral Lee undermined the Japanese invasion (1592-98) with his "turtle ships"
that reeked havoc with Japanese supply lines. Emperor Sejong, among many
accomplishments, revived the Chiphyonjon, Royal Academy. It started with a staff
of 10 and grew to 20 and development Hangul script and many scientific
instruments.
During the day, weather permitting, there are
ceremonies for the opening and closing of the palace gates, and twelve, hourly Changing-of- the-Gate-Guards, with several variations.The chart (right) shows the various ranks and their respective uniforms and positioning in ceremonies. The ceremony was first fully established in 1469. The ceremony reenacted today has been revived in accord uniforms, weaponry and formalities customary in the early Joseon, in the 15th century.
Geunjeongjeon, considered the
greatest building of Joseon architecture. It is the main building of
Gyeongbokgung. It is the place where ceremonies of the state, such as new
year's greetings to the king by civil and military officials, were held, and
where foreign envoys were received. It is believed to be in a very
auspicious location; surrounded by four mountains and with a stream running
through the grounds. Behind
the throne (right) is a picture showing a red sun and a white moon, above five
mountains, a waterfall and the ocean (the realm) and pine trees (a sacred tree).
This is the symbol of the emperor
and it traveled with the him. The sun and
the moon in particular represent all of nature (yang and ying), and the king and queen, respectively.
On the ceiling (right) is a watchful gold dragon, another symbol of the emperor. He was also likened to a dragon.
The
interior of Sajeongjeon,
the royal office, Gyeongbokgung, is furnished with the royal throne and royal screen
depicting five mountains (left). To the right are the reading tables, document
boxes and other furniture.
The lower photo features the incense burner, with the throne, lanterns,
candlestick, reading tables and other furniture in the background.
Gyeonghoeru pavillion is where official
banquets were held and foreign envoys were entertained. King Taejong dug
the pond and the pavillion was built in 1412.
Sajeongjeon
was used as the King's office along with Manchunjeon to the east and
Cheonchujeon to the west -- yin and yang. One was for winter meetings (ondol
heated floor) and one for summer meetings.
Gyotaejeon,
the queen's residence building has a wooden floor hall in the center, with ondol rooms on each side of it. The present building was restored in 1994.
The queen could look out of the window in the back the building onto a garden: There are four terraces in the garden, one for
each season. The chimneys are part of the traditional ondol heating system for
the buildings. The orange brick is for women.
One of the exhibits is on the history of the Hanbok. It is fascinating to see the evolution of the style. Even today the cut and color change from year to year like any fashion trend. The common denominator seems to be high wasted belt or tie.
Incorporated
into the National Folk Museum is a hands-on children's museum. The is also an outdoor section to the
museum with traditional children's games and a replica of a 1950's Seoul street.
In
time it may be a little change, but I am amazed at how often I happen upon
public performances of traditional Korean music and dance. The Koreans in the
audience seem as thrilled as I as the foreigners..
Bukchon
(north village) was a residential area of high government officials during the
Joseon Period. After the fall of the Joseon Dynasty and the occupation by
the Japanese, Bukchon fell on hard times. As the old traditional hanok,
wooden houses, became derelict they were replaced by less traditional
structures. There is now a resurgence in appreciation for the hanok that
has lead to effort to preserve the remaining few. Bukchon has a higher
concentration of hanok than any other part of the city and has become
famous for this. It has again become a fashionable address.
Donhwanmun Gate, the oldest palace gate among those remaining in Korea.
Injeongjeonmun Gate
Changdeokgung
& the Secret Garden were the 2nd palace for a long period. After the Imjin
Invasion (1592-98), Changdeokgung was the first rebuilt and was used as the main palace until until 1865, in the late
Joseon Dynasty.Changdeokgung has many of the elements of Gyeongbokgung, the big palace, on a lesser scale.
Injeongjeon Hall
Buyongji pond is created to mimic earth, the square pond, and the universe,
the round island. The building on the hill was used to store the royal archives.
Nakseonjae living quarters
Euiduhap, where the Prince Hyomyeong enjoyed reading and contemplating nature
Insa-dong: Traditional an
area of antique and rare book dealers, calligraphy shops and tea rooms,
patronized by seniors, aristocrats and artists. Gentrification and modernization
is pushing them out.
Calligraphy brush and paper shop.
There are still a few artist in the area practicing their trade, as exemplified by the man to the right hand-painting fans.
Tapgpol
(Pagoda) Park was the first modern park in Seoul. The primary pieces were
recovered from the site of Wongak-sa, a Joseon era temple -- since destroyed. The park gets it name from the
intricately carved, ten-story,
12m high, marble
pagoda that was moved to the park. It was originally 13 stories. The
monument to the right describes the history of the construction of Wongak-sa.
Granite turtle base, with a marble body stone and head stone. The park is historically prominent because it
is the birth
place of Korea's modern Independence Movement. On March 1,
1919, during the Japanese
occupation, 400-500 students gathered
here to hear the first reading of the Korean Declaration of Independence.
The
monument (left) is at Ri Insik's house, where general, civil servant and
activist Min Young-Hwan (b. 1861) committed suicide on November 30, 1905, after
leading resistance to capitulation to the invasion by the Japanese. The
statue of Min (right) is near Bongeun-sa.
Outside
of the oldest parts of Seoul the streetscape is dominated by wide boulevards and
International-style architecture. After
the WWII, much of the the industrial world, embraced International style
architecture. It embraces the philosophy that "less is more." Beauty was to be
the result of the structure and form of the building, dependent on the
proportions of the structural steel grid and the curtain wall that covered it.
Buildings should be functional and geometric. Characteristics are tall slender
buildings, glass and aluminum shells. There is no delineation of base, shaft and
capital.
International-style
architecture is used for commercial and residential buildings alike.
Fortunately, generally on the non-arterial side of the residential buildings
some green space is provide. These generally aren't full fledged parks
capable of accommodation the recreational needs of the adjacent population but
they do provide a softer edge and may contain a walking path and bench for
meditation.
If "less is more" inspired the international style, "less is a bore" became the mantra of some architects after the 1980's -- labeled post-modern Post-modern didn't start to seep into Seoul's streetscape until much later. Even now projects that try to twist, contort and distort the box are rare, but when they do they tend to be very eye catching. They tend not to deviate from the International form as some post-modern architecture, but they are a start at creativity.
Alas, the street
wall of a long many of the boulevards is used for commercial retail space.
It rarely looks much different from what you might see in Los Angeles, London or
Paris. In fact, many of the stores are the same brands that you will see
in Los Angeles, London and Paris.
A
few blocks away, in
the center of the Gangnam district's high-rise buildings, are the Seonjeongneung Royal Tombs. King Seongjong
(r 1469-94), his second queen, Jeonghyeon-wanghu, and King Jungjong (r 1506-44)
are buried here. King Seongjong ascended the throne at the age of 13. He is
remembered for his work ethic and love of poetry. In 1485 he promulgated the
Grand Code of State Administration, whose compilation had begun in the reign of
King Sejo. He also completed the Expanded National Code in 1492, perfecting the
laws and institutions of the state. He stabilized the authority of the throne by
engaging the neo-Confucian literati to check the meritorious elites who wielded
immense power at the time.
Bongeunsa was built in 794
south, across the river from old Seoul. The temple may have included up to
18 temples/shrines when it was destroyed by fire in 1939. Key shrine currently
are: Daewungjeon (main), Bupwangru, Shimgeundang, Seonbuldang, Jijangjeon,
Yeonsanjeon, Bukgeukgojeon, Yeonggak, Pan jeon, Bowudang The temple groups
are now totally engulfed by an
urban environment, but still is a refuge of tranquility.
The dominant
statue is Mireukdaebul (Buddha of the Future State). It is the largest Buddha in Korea. The statue symbolizes hope for Maitreya to arrive and save all of
man kind. Bongeunsa offer temple stay programs, which provide relaxation
and a chance to experience the culture through experiencing the daily life of a
monk.
Korean fish and mandu
(dumplings) dinner, with and assortment of side dishes. (left)If the Italians got the idea for pizza from Korea it was from panjeon. Jeons are made from a variety of vegetables and / or seafoods fried in a light batter. Jeon also has a resemblance to pancakes and tempura. The platter to the right has modeum jeon -- assorted pancakes.
Seoul to Guemsa (Cultural
Heartland)
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