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Ibike
Korea People-to-People Program
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 Photo essay: Goryeong to
Haeinsa
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(40km, 25mi) Learn about its customs and treasures of the monastery
Points of Interest: Haein-sa, “Koreana Triptaka”, hermitages |
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For miles, coming out of Goryeong, all
the roadside trees were wrapped with green bans with preserve the environment
messages. |
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A temple along the road side. It is medium
size compared to the large temples in the mountains, and the small isolated
hermitage that often satellites of the big temples. |
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After leaving the valley floor, heading
up to Kayasan, the predominate agriculture is apples. At this time the
trees were heavily laden and roadside vendors were selling apples by the case. |
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Kayasan (mountain) is part of the Sobaik Mountain
Range. It is part of Kayasan National Park, and is considered a spiritual mountain and one of the eight scenic
places in Korea. Scenic places come in groups of eight: There are the
eight most scenic place in a county, on a coast, in the mountains, etc.
But Kayasan is at the top because it is one of the eight best in the country.
It is a popular hiking destinations for Koreans. |
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This pagoda stands alone high in the Kaya
Mountains, at the former site of Peopusa (temple), built during the reign of
Aejangwang (r. 800-809) of the Unified Shilla Kingdom. The pagodas double
base and three stories are typical pagodas of the Unified Shilla period
(668-918). Pagoda always had an odd number of stories. |
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Even high in the Kaya mountains you can find a
curtain of advertising signs. Signs for advertising and announcing events are nearly omnipresent across the country. |
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It seems to be difficult to catch the beauty of the
farms with the camera, despite dozens of attempts. Fortunately, even
without the perfect picture, we got to enjoy some very tranquil scenery. |
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 Nongsanjeong: This is the
retreat where Master Goun Choe Chiwon, a prominent Confucian scholar towards the
end of the Shilla dynasty searched for truth. The inside of the pavilion
contains poems and writings of the Master. |
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 In the rocks in and around the river are etched
with an enormous amount of Chinese lettering. Some of it is identified as
poems and verse (i.e. graffiti carved in stone.) The scene was sweetened
with a little fall color (right). |
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Scenic river, fall foliage, graffiti (actually spiritual |
    
messages) carved in stone and
a horse monument are among many interesting sights that grace the road to Haeinsa. |
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 A large and elaborate monument
along the road into
the Kaya mountails, on the way to Haeinsa (temple). Many gifts had been
left so it is seemingly important, but it is not explained on any maps,
brochures or sign board at the location. |
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The pagoda has a double base and five stories. |
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Haeinsa Tourist Town: The Korean version of a theme
town (i.e. Bavaria, Tudor, Art Deco, etc). This one is Korean Buddhist
Kitsch. If you are visitor and need food, lodging or a souvenir this town is
set up to serve you - multiple times over. |
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Approaching Haeinsa, and near other temples and
sometimes scenic locations, are mini-stupas-stacks-of-stones. These
are intended to invoke the Buddha. |
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Gates, stairs and roofs are all finely
detailed. Typically, there are three gate one must go through as they
approach a temple. Each has its own symbolism and purpose. Generally,
they symbolize the transition from the earthly realm and to the spiritual realm,
and the interconnectedness of the two.. |
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Haeinsa (temple) is one of the ten
main temples of the Hwaom sect. According to the Gayasan Hainsa Sunanjuwonbyukki written by
Choi Chi Won, Haeinsa was built by two monks named Suneung and Ijong in 802.
The name Haeinsa originated from :"Haein Sammae" of the Hwaom scriptures.
Haeinsa is the place where Hwaom ideas are accomplished. |
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We were granted permission by the
monks to stay overnight (pre-arranged) at Haeinsa. The rooms are "ondol"
(heated floors, with mats to sleep on -- no beds) and
no accessories, except for electric lights -- though it is interesting reflect
on the use of cell phones by monks and the monetary now has a high speed
internet connection.. Beside touring the environs, as is expected of guests,
we participated in the major activities during the period of our brief stay:
paying our respects to Buddha, evening drum ritual, lights out at 9PM, 3:30 AM
pray ceremony and 6 AM breakfast.. |
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 Major temples have a bell / drum
/ gong
pavilion, usually near the gate. There are four instruments: The hide covered drum calls animals of the land. The
wooden fish-shaped slit drum calls the creatures of the water. The
flat metal cloud-shaped gong calls the animals of the sky. And, the large bronze bell calls all
spirits.
They are played a couple time a day to alert all the creatures and spirits to
hear.. |
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Haeinsa Daejeokgwangjeon, where the statue of
Birojanabul is enshrined as the main Buddha, is the central sanctuary of Hwaom
Buddhism in Korea. Through his actualization of the Buddha's teaching, which are
believed to be as brilliant as the sun that illuminates the heavens, Birojanabul
has become a figure symbolic of Buddhist truth itself. It was originally
built in 802. Most of the buildings at the temple
fall into two categories; living quarters and those used for prayer/study. There
are a number of shines used for pray. We joined the monks for their first
prays of the day at 3:30 a.m. They then do chore, have breakfast at 6 a.m. and then
study or pray in one of the shrines for the morning. The juxtaposition of
nature, the multiple graceful rooflines of the building, the changing light and
the ambiance of activity (including chanting), generates a very spiritual aura. |
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This pagoda, with its two part foundation, three
story structure and roof stone, is typical of the style of late Unified Shilla
(668-918). In 1926, during the renovation of this pagoda, nine small
individual Buddhist figure were discovered inside a stone chest on the uppermost
support. After renovation was completed, these statures were re-enshrined
in the pagoda. |
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Stone lanterns were made to remove the darkness
within temples where Buddha rested. Because lanterns are connected to the
offering of lanterns for Buddha, they are usually located in front of the main
sanctuary together with stone pagodas representing Buddha. |
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These panels illustrate events in Buddha's life.
 
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 Both the interior and
exterior of the temples are elaborately painted. These exterior panels record
events important to Buddhism.
 Basic temple etiquette:
- Generally be quiet
- Wear long pants
- Don't enter a temple or room directly in front of Buddha, use a side door
(some senior monks are given this privilege.)
- Remove you shoes, but no bare feet (wear socks), when entering a temple.
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 Pay your respect to Buddha by bowing three times
- Don't take pictures while inside a temple
- If you eat a meal, eat all the rice you take
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I am fascinated by how the descriptions of most
buildings and monuments are written. Besides giving the history, legends
and context of the items they often also give technical descriptions of the
construction, architecture and size -- a lot of numbers that would not be of
much interest to most Western visitors, but clearly information perceived to be
of interest to Korean visitor, who make-up 95% or more of the visitor to all of
these heritage sites. |
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Entrance to Haeinsa Janggyeongpanjeon (Janggyeongpan
Hall) the home of 80,000 wooden blocks of the Tripitaka Korean, a complete set
of Buddhist texts. The engraving was
preceded by four years of preparation and took place between 1237-48. |
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Janggyeongpanjeon is composed of four buildings.
They are presumed to have been built around 1448. |
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These are the stacks for wooden blocks of the
Tripitaka Koreana. The blocks were carved by the Daejangdogam (the
department in central government responsible for the project) during the reign
of King Gojong. Daejanggyeong refers to a collection of all the scared
writings of Buddhism. |
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Made to protect the nation with the power of
Buddhism against the Mongolian Invasion, the Tripitaka Koreana is recognized as
the most accurate Tripitaka in history. Sugidaesa (Sugi, the Great
Buddhist Monk), who was in charge of the project, took care to correct errors
after a thorough study of the Northern Song Tripitaka, the Kitan Tripitaka and
the Old Tripitaka Koreana. |
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Legend has it that seven princes retired to a
mountain to enter the priesthood. Queen Heo, their mother, worried about
her sons who renounced the world to enter the priesthood and tried several
times to meet them. She never could meet her seven sons who had already
forgotten the world long ago. She saw in the pond only the reflected
shadow of the irresistible yearning for her sons. This pond is call Yeogji
which means "shadow pond". The peaks on the right side of Kayasan have
been called "Chilgulbong" which means seven Buddha peaks. At Chilbulsa of
Ssanggyesa there is a similar Yeogji legend. |
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In 1966, four sheets of paper and other offered
items were found in this pagoda. The pages were written by Choe Chiwon,
the most famous calligrapher of the late Shilla Dynasty. The pages say
that the pagoda was built to appease the souls of the monks who died guarding
the treasures of the temple from thieves. |
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Hongje-Am: This small temple was built in 1608 to
be given to the Master Samyeong by King Seonjo in appreciation of the monks
contribution to national defense through raising monks' army during the Japanese
invasion of 1592. Master Samyeong's stupa is nearby. It was made in 1610,
when the priest died and contains his sarira. |
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Wondang-Am: This hermitage next to Haeinsa
specialize in meditation sessions for lay people. Sessions can be for a
weekend, week, month or even longer. |
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Nongsanjeong: This is the
retreat where Master Goun Choe Chiwon, a prominent Confucian scholar towards the
end of the Shilla dynasty searched for truth. The inside of the pavilion
contains poems and writings of the Master.
In the rocks in and around the river are etched
with an enormous amount of Chinese lettering. Some of it is identified as
poems and verse (i.e. graffiti carved in stone.) The scene was sweetened
with a little fall color (right).
A large and elaborate monument
along the road into
the Kaya mountails, on the way to Haeinsa (temple). Many gifts had been
left so it is seemingly important, but it is not explained on any maps,
brochures or sign board at the location.
The pagoda has a double base and five stories.
Major temples have a bell / drum
/ gong
pavilion, usually near the gate. There are four instruments: The hide covered drum calls animals of the land. The
wooden fish-shaped slit drum calls the creatures of the water. The
flat metal cloud-shaped gong calls the animals of the sky. And, the large bronze bell calls all
spirits.
They are played a couple time a day to alert all the creatures and spirits to
hear..
Both the interior and
exterior of the temples are elaborately painted. These exterior panels record
events important to Buddhism.
Basic temple etiquette:
