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Rolling the Islands of the Salish Sea

   
 

 

Photo essay: Rolling the Islands of the Salish Sea: Swinomish

   

Pt. Townsend to SWINOMISH (70km, 43mi) This area was the rich hunting & fishing grounds of the Skagit People.
Points of interest: Olympic rain shadow, a variety of coastlines, Deception Pass, Swinomish Maiden story pole, Swinomish Indian Reservation; Health Center, Senior Center, Day Care, Smokehouse, Environment protection programs, cultural programs, planning department. .

  Summer soccer camp, Ft Casey
Summer soccer camp, Ft Casey
Ft. Casey was established in the late 1890's, part of the first line of a fortification system called the triangle of death (with Ft Flagler and Ft Warden), designed to prevent a hostile fleet -- originally the British -- from reaching such targets as the Bremerton Naval Yard and the cities of Seattle, Tacoma and Everett. Construction began in 1897 and continued in one form or another until the fort was closed in 1953.  The guns were never fired in anger.  It is now a conference center and in the summer the parade field is used for more stylized combat like youth soccer camp.
  Bicycling along Ebey's Prairie
Bicycling along Ebey's Prairie
Tranquil bicycling along Ebey's Prairie does suggest the grisly story associated with the location.  The moniker commemorates Col. Isaac Ebey, one of the early pioneers. “A man of culture and education.” However, rather than his personal contributions to the territory's development, he is most remembered for his tragic death. On the night of 11 Aug., 1857, Haida Indians from British Columbia, seeking face-saving revenge for earlier defeat and for killing of one of their chiefs in Battle of Pt Gamble, by the cannons of the USS Massachusetts, raided Whidbey Is. They pre-selected Ebey as their victim. They awakened him at his farmhouse, shot and decapitated him, and fled back to the Queen Charlotte Islands with his head. Several years later the grisly trophy was recovered by the Hudson's Bay Co. and returned for burial with his body.
  Bicycling along Penn Cove

Bicycling along Penn Cove

Bicycling along Penn CovePenn Cove is know worldwide for its delectable mussels and scenic bicycling.  Traditionally, it was a prime shellfish gathering ground for the Swinomish, Skagit and other local Native Americans people.  It has the largest and oldest shellfish farm in the country.  It is also a great place to spot bald eagles and osprey, in the right season.  In the late 19th and early 20th century many sea captain were drawn to the placid waters of Penn Cove and settled in Coupeville -- the inference being they were tired of stormy sea?
  Deception Pass Bridge
Deception Pass Bridge
The Deception Pass Bridge was originally envisioned by Capt George Morse in 1850.  After more than eighty years of procrastination, the very impressive bridge was built in one year by the Works Progress Administration, opening in July 1935. The name comes from Captain Vancouver's realization that what he had mistaken for a peninsula was actually an island.
  Maiden of the Sea The Samish "Maiden of the Sea" represents the legend of Princess Ko Kwal Al Woot who married the son of the Great Spirit of the Sea.  The legend tell how, after initially opposing the marriage, the Samish Chief, reversed himself, allowing his beautify daughter to live in the sea, so that the Samish people would have an abundance of seafood into eternity.
  Sovereign Nation of the Swinomish People The Sovereign Nation of the Swinomish People, since 1855 and before.  At many levels it is only a charade to be a sovereign nation in the midst of a super power, but on our visit we learn how the native people push to assert their sovereignty against both the state and federal governments and Christian society, and their efforts to reclaim their culture, identity and dignity.
  Swinomish member Ray Williams speaking
Swinomish member Ray Williams speaking
Swinomish member Ray Williams generously presents a very informative, challenging, and thought provoking briefing on the revitalization of the Salish culture, social services programs (health, education, legal, and seniors citizens) on the reservation, the message of central totem pole, the symbolism of the carved posts in the longhouse, the struggle between and the combining of traditional beliefs and Catholicism and many other topics.
  Swinomish Longhouse
Swinomish Long House

Carved doors in the Swinomish Longhouse





Carved door in the Swinomish Longhouse

The Longhouse is the cultural and spiritual center of the Salish people.  Historically (before contact with the Europeans), the native people could fairly easily gather and prepare the food they needed for the other three seasons, during the summer.  There was not much to gather during the winter so it was a time that they spent long hours in the long house developing and passing on the cultural and spiritual knowledge.  This was also the time of year that people would go to other communities to visit and they would welcome visitors into their own longhouse.  On the posts by the door that visitors would use, are the eagle and salmon, both symbols for travel, to welcome the visitors.  The carving on each post teaches something about the culture or history.
  Carved pole in the Swinomish Longhouse Carved pole in the Swinomish Longhouse   Carved pole in the Swinomish Longhouse Carved pole in the Swinomish Longhouse Carved poles in the Swinomish Longhouse
  The Senior Center offers activities and daily lunch for senior members of the community.  Visitors are welcome so we joined them and heard about their retirement, travel plans and part-time home-based businesses.
  Swinomish cemetery mementoes left at the graves in Swinomish cemeterySwinomish cemetery.  It is more interesting than most because of the variety and extensiveness of the mementoes left at the graves, and design of some of the grave monuments.
  La Connor La Connor started as a Swinomish trading post. In 1867, renamed by John S Connor for his wife Louis Anne Connor. In its current incarnation it has a lot of upscale galleries, boutiques, gift shops, restaurant and antique stores.
   
 

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