Zambia: Bicycle Tour Travel Guide
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by David Mozer
[An introduction and overview to travel in Africa is available by clicking here. If you are look for a bicycle tour to this country, this link might help you.]
The information below may have been extracted from a more comprehensive "Country Supplement" to the book "Bicycling In Africa". For information on these publications click on the links.
Thanks to Mike Hutton for contributing most of the detail for this article.
During the period of the cold war between the "front line states" and South Africa, Zambia had a high security alert for terrorists. Officials were very xenophobic and tourism wasn't encouraged. Elections were held in November 1991, which changed the government. There is now more positive attitudes towards tourism, but with the exception of around Victoria Falls, few tourist to show for it. The "peace dividend" has not really been realized as the economy expands slowly and successive the government are condemned for a variety of corruption and mismanagement.
Zambia has some wonderful cycling to offer the well prepared and adventurous cyclist. In many parts of the country there is still a very real sense that you’re seeing a different side to Africa that few tourists are lucky enough to see. Often the only signs of “civilisation” are cream biscuits! Roads vary from perfect asphalt (not much of it though) through wonderfully enjoyable dirt roads to loose, deep sand. It is possible to plan routes of several thousand kilometers almost entirely on dirt roads. Away from the few main roads traffic is almost non-existent, but people are rarely far away. It is often said that Zambian people are the friendliest in all of Africa, and this is one of the many things that make Zambia such an enjoyable cycling destination.
It is worth emphasizing that even on the main corridors there can be surprisingly long distances between services for travelers (i.e. package stores, restaurants and lodging) so you need to carry an adequate supply of water and always have a backup supply of food and energy boosters.
Climate
Temperatures are tempered by altitude so it’s rarely too hot to cycle, though the winter months from May through August probably are the more ideal time to visit. Night time temperatures during the winter months can be surprisingly low – a sleeping bag rated down to around 0oC should suffice.
Arrival
Lusaka International Airport is some 20 kilometers from the city centre. It’s a good idea to arrange transport prior to arrival as most taxis will be unable to accommodate a boxed bike. Expect to pay around US$20 or US$30 for transport to the city centre. Bringing a bike into Zambia is generally problem-free, though customs regulations are strict and a new and unused bike may be subject to import duties. You can avoid potential hassles by not arriving with a pristine and unused bike.
General
The police and army of Zambia are typically friendly and on the whole honest and trustworthy. Along the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo and Angola you may be questioned as to your motives, but when it becomes clear you are a tourist you will be welcomed. Having quick access to your passport is a good idea as there are numerous army and police checkpoints where they like to check the validity of your visa. An invalid visa will attract a hefty fine, but visas can be extended in most provincial capitals.
Learning a few words of Bemba, Nyanja, or Tumbuka may help, although even in the remotest parts there will be someone with budget English. As with all African cultures, respect for elders is paramount in Zambia and public displays of anger or aggression will attract ridicule.
Being self-reliant is essential. Away from the main arteries it’s not unusual to travel for 2 or 3 days without seeing a vehicle. Should you get into trouble you could have a long wait for transport back to a town or city. Mobile phone coverage is extremely limited and in general only cities and provincial capitals have coverage.
Roads and Maps
Roads are generally poor other than the main international arteries. Some roads have been “all-weathered” and covered with rough gravel. Others have been neglected for decades and are deep in sand. Consequently, daily attainable distances can rarely be known with any certainty in advance so take this into consideration when route planning. There are currently no good maps covering Zambia. The Michelin Africa Central and South is acceptable, but woefully inaccurate in the more remote parts of the country. In many areas route finding can be interesting. Beware that locals generally do not give accurate directions and distance estimates.
During and immediately after the rains many roads are impassable or extremely difficult to pass. There are often no bridges across the numerous rivers that flow only during the rains – dug-out canoes must be used for the crossings. Roads in the Luangwa valley, in particular, are highly susceptible to the rains.
Accommodation and Food
Accommodation in villages is basic, but usually cheap (as little as US$2). Bush camping is necessary in some parts of the country. A free-standing, naturally colored tent is highly recommended for bush camping. A strong ground sheet is essential. It is sometimes possible to spend nights at schools.
Food is generally in limited supply. In small villages only nshima (maize flour dumpling - called sudza, ugali, and posho elsewhere in East Africa) and basic vegetables such as tomatoes, carrots and onions are widely available. Porridge oats, noodles, milk powder and bread can be bought in most towns. Shoprite supermarkets (in Lusaka, Livingstone, Mongu, Chipata, Kasama, Mansa and the Copperbelt towns) are okay, but less well stocked than those in the southern countries. Bottled water cannot be bought in most villages. The water quality is generally good, but filtering or treating it may be advisable at times.
West from Lusaka
Roads from Lusaka are good. Heading west, the asphalt is good, the road is quiet and there are few hills as far as Mongu. Accommodation options are limited to Mumbwa (153km from Lusaka), camping at the gate to Kafue National Park (47km from Mumbwa), Tbz (140km from the park gate), Kaoma (67km from Tbz) and then Mongu (193km from Kaoma). It is likely that at least one night camping in the bush will be necessary. This is relatively easy in Zambia, but for those who see this as being a little daunting, camping with local farmers or staying at schools is often an option for a night. The facilities offered at schools (a good meal and hot water for the special guest) may even exceed those of Zambian guest houses. Crossing Kafue National Park by bicycle is permitted, but beware of the tsetse flies. Tsetse flies are responsible for the spread of sleeping sickness, but it’s the fact that their bites are so painful that makes them a real nuisance.
From Mongu the road deteriorates, with only sporadic patches of asphalt as far as Senanga (105km from Mongu). Senanga is a beautiful village on the banks of the Zambezi with a selection of guest houses and hotels. The Bream from the Zambezi is delicious.
The asphalt ends at Senanga and what follows is a stretch of road that must rank alongside the worst roads in Africa, despite the fact that it is apparently an international route. Several years of use by heavy trucks delivering food and supplies to the refugee camp at Nangweshi have left very deep and loose sand – the cyclist’s nightmare. Senanga to Nangweshi is around 40km, but achieving this in a single day is no picnic in the park. Significant delays at the pontoon crossing of the Zambezi are common. There is a small and cheap guest house in Nangweshi – the last until Katima Mulilo at the Namibian border. The worst of the 200km stretch from Senanga to Katima Mulilo is in the first 100km, but this is not to say the road thereafter is good. It is at least mostly cycleable. Having cycled this stretch of road you will get immediate respect from anyone that knows it!
From Katima Mulilo there’s a good asphalt road as far as Livingstone. Accomodation options are limited to Sesheke (around 12km from Katima Mulilo), Kazungula (130km from Sesheke) and then Livingstone (around 65km from Kazungula).
South from Lusaka
South from Lusaka to Livingstone the roads are also good, but there are some fairly hilly stretches. This route is much better served, however, with “fast food” stops and several villages with guest houses reflecting the fact that it is on the main tourist trail. There may still be a need to camp in the bush as villages are not evenly spaced. Bush camping undetected can be tricky here, but the consequences if you are detected are no more than a little friendly curiosity. Guest houses can be found in Kafue (40km from Lusaka), Mazabuka (110km from Kafue), Monze (65km from Mazabuka), Pemba (around 30km from Monze), Choma (75 km from Pemba), Kalomo (65km from Choma), and Zimba (around 45km from Kalomo). Livingstone is then only 80km from Zimba. Curiously, guest houses along this stretch of road are considerably more expensive than elsewhere in Zambia.
A number of detours from the main road towards Lake Kariba are possible, though the roads are generally extremely sandy. The road to the Zimbabwean border forks off the Livingstone road some 10km south from Kafue.
North from Lusaka
North from Lusaka is another good asphalt road, but it is perhaps Zambia’s busiest road as far as Kapiri Mposhi. The road is rarely flat. Accomodation for the initial stretch can be found in Landless Corner (around 75km from Lusaka), Kabwe (70km from Landless Corner), Kapiri Mposhi (70km from Kabwe), and Mkushi (98km from Kabwe).
There is a smaller road that leads west from Kabwe that misses about 70km of the busy stretch and the rather unpleasant town of Kapiri Mposhi, reaching Mkushi after some 200km. This road is certainly enjoyable and there’s the option to visit Lunsemfwa Falls. For the final 60km before rejoining the main road at Mkushi the surface is terrible, alternating between corrugations and deep sand. Blame the farmers! There is no accommodation on this stretch until Little Mkushi, about 50km from Mkushi – bush camping will be necessary.
There are a few accommodation options between Mkushi and the Tanzanian border. Serenje (118km from Mkushi), Kanona (64km from Serenje), Mpika (184km from Kanona), Chinsali (180km from Mpika) and Isoka (100km from Chinsali) all have guest houses. Kanona to Mpika and Mpika to Chinsali are big days though with a lot of climbing. Across the border in Tunduma (Tanzania) accommodation options are plentiful. Kundalila Falls, the Nsalu Caves (both near to Kanona), and Shiwa Ngandu (an English manor house set in the Zambian bush) make interesting detours on the road north.
East from Lusaka
East from Lusaka takes you through one of Zambia’s more mountainous regions. Between the Luangwa River and Nyimba there are some not-insignificant climbs, but some great views to compensate. Accommodation is extremely limited, with a cheap hotel in Kacholola (296km from Lusaka) and guest houses in Nyimba (50km from Kacholola) before the first town of Petauke (60km from Nyimba).
The Luangwa Valley
From Petauke the main road continues to Chipata (around 130km from Petauke) and then the Malawian border, but branching off left here and heading towards Mfue (193km from Petauke) and South Luangwa National Park is highly recommended. This is where the cycling gets seriously hard and a mountain bike or expedition touring bike is essential. The road starts off from Petauke near perfect for a bicycle, but deteriorates after 65km. A brief stretch of treacherous deep sand is followed by a wheel crunching descent into the Luangwa valley. The road eventually meets up with the Luangwa River and follows it as far as Mfue. South Luangwa NP is just across the river so expect to see plenty of wildlife. Elephants are abundant here, but luckily for the cyclist there are plenty of trees to hide behind. Between Petauke and Mfue bush camping will be necessary. It’s better to spend a night in the bush before the road meets up with river and the elephants! During or soon after the rains the road from Petauke to Mfue could pose problems as there are numerous rivers and no bridges.
Flatdogs Lodge near Mfue is the recommended accommodation option. Camping is cheap, food is expensive, but excellent, and hippos and elephants often wander through the campsite. The Lodge is just on the edge of South Luangwa National Park and runs inexpensive safaris and walking safaris into the park. South Luangwa National Park is arguably the best park for wildlife viewing in all of Africa and has yet to become overrun by tourists. Also, since the lodge runs its own fleet of safari vehicles they have a well-equipped workshop.
Heading north from Mfue and then through a part of South Luangwa National Park towards Lundazi (around 240km from Mfue) the roads become more like bike tracks. Unfortunately there are many of them and none are marked on maps so route finding here is a combination of guess work and asking the locals. You probably will make it through, but not necessarily by the most direct route. Tagging along with local cyclists can be useful as there are stretches that are unsafe to travel alone at certain times of the day on account of the wildlife. There are no guest houses until Lundazi, 3 days cycle away. Stops are possible in Lukusuzi (84km from Mfue) and Chitungulu (around 120km from Mfue), where camping or nights at schools are an option. If you are near the Luangwa River camping alone in the bush is not recommended. It is possible to follow the river as far as Chama instead of heading for Lundazi. However, Lundazi is a good stop to stock up on supplies as it’s the last significant town or village until Isoka. Between Chitungulu and Lundazi beware – lions are periodically spotted. Take care when bush camping. Also beware of snakes in this area, including puff adders which can often be seen lying on the roads in the mornings and the much-feared green mamba. The road from Mfue to Lundazi again could pose problems during and soon after the rains.
North from Lundazi is relatively easy for around 100km. Thereafter some agricultural operations have destroyed the road. The plus side of the farming is that camping sites are easy to find. Soon after the road forks for Chama, there is a 100km plus stretch infested with tsetse flies. They are out in force in July, but may be less of an issue at other times of year. There is little that can be done other than gritting your teeth, frantically swatting and cycling like hell. Muyombe is around 125km from Lundazi. Camping in the tsetse zone is not really an option so reaching Muyombe is essential. A guest house and some cheap Malawian beer await you in Muyombe.
From Muyombe there are some serious hills to climb before reaching the next village at Kampumbu – some will take every last bit of your strength. Its 110km from Muyombe to Kampumbu, but since there’s no guest house in Kampumbu there’s little reason to aim for it. From Kampumbu to Isoka is only 57km. There’s a nasty little hill just before the road joins the main road, but fear not as Isoka is a superb little town and well worth the effort. Accommodation is cheap; food is cheap and in rich supply compared with the Luangwa valley, and it’s a nice place to relax and recharge for a day or two.
Northern Zambia
From Isoka you can head north to the Tanzanian border, south to Lusaka (both on the Great North road) or west to Kasama. Isoka to Kasama is around 190km on a fairly flat dirt road passing through some interesting swamp lands. There are no guest houses on this road so bush camping will be necessary. The final few kilometers to Kasama are asphalt. There’s little to recommend in Kasama other than the fact that it has several good supermarkets, including a Shoprite. If you’re heading up to the north west of Zambia, this is the final opportunity to stock up on food until Mansa.
Heading north from Kasama there’s a decent asphalt road to Mbala (165km from Kasama) and Mpulungu. An interesting detour can be taken by turning off the main road about 20km north from Kasama and following the railway line as far as the village of Kayambi. There’s an old Christian mission at Kayambi that seems completely out of place in this remote part of Zambia. Veering away from the railway line at Kayambi takes you back towards the main road and the town of Mbala. Expect to take 3 days to get from Kasama to Mbala using this route as it’s around 280km. The bush here is sparsely populated on the whole so camping is easy. There are also sporadic schools. Mumbwe mission and school, about 70km from Mbala, is particularly impressive and a good place to stop for a night. You may be lucky enough to catch the church choir practicing. From Mbala to Mpulungu is only 40km on asphalt; all downhill on the way to Lake Tanganyika, and Mpulungu is the better option both for food and accommodation. The lake is beautiful, the fish is delicious, and the atmosphere in Mpulungu is extremely relaxing.
If you’re staying in Zambia, Mpulungu represents a bit of a dead end. To get to the far north-west corner of the country its necessary first to head south. The climb back up to Mbala is considerably less enjoyable than the descent! Heading as far south as Kasama (by the main road this time) is worthwhile for a quick visit to Chisimba Falls on the way back north. The loop through Kapatu, Mporokoso, Kaputa, Mununga, Nchelenge then to Kawambwa takes you through a region where only a handful of tourists (if any) visit each year. There’s a good chance you’ll see majestic fish eagles around Lake Mweru Wantipa. Soon after Nchelenge there’s the option of either continuing on asphalt to Kawambwa or taking the shorter dirt road. Though there is a significant climb initially on the dirt road, it’s certainly the more interesting option, passing an open prison and refugee camp. Accommodation can be found at Chisimba Falls (40km from Kasama), in Mporokoso (around 150km from Chisimba Falls), Kaputa (around 220km from Mporokoso), Mununga (122km from Kaputa), Nchelenge (around 50km from Kaputa) and Kawambwa (85km from Nchelenge using the dirt road).
Some 85km east from Kawambwa is one of Zambia’s more impressive waterfalls – Lumangwe Falls, and 20km south west is Ntumbacushi Falls, also well worth a visit. Kawambwa has some reasonable guest houses and an excellent restaurant serving sausage and chips!
South from Kawambwa, the next town is Mansa, around 240km away. There is an alternative asphalt route following the DRC border, but the rough road is quieter and more interesting. If you’re travelling with a Michelin map, ignore most of what it tells you between Kawambwa and Mansa. There isn’t a village called Munungu here and there isn’t any asphalt road to cross. There are no accommodation options between Kawambwa and Mansa, but there are some small villages where borehole water is available along with cream biscuits. Mansa has the full range of accommodation options, good food and a Shoprite.
If the roads up in the north of Zambia have been quite enough for you, then it’s possible to make your way south to join the main Great North Road again on asphalt. But there’s another interesting detour here, heading south initially towards the DRC border at Chembe before turning and heading east. The turn-off is around 10km south from Mansa. Again the Michelin map is somewhat misleading and there are more roads than are marked on the map, so care is needed. The surface is mostly good and the road rejoins the asphalt road some 40km south from the town of Samfya. From Mansa back to the main road is around 100km. Visiting Samyfa is a must. The swamp area around Lake Bangweulu is stunning and is in stark contrast to most of Zambia. There are plenty of day trips that can be taken around the lake using Samfya as a base, including a visit to a populated island on the lake. Arranging transport on the lake with the local fishermen is fairly easy.
Heading south from Samfya you will soon be passing through the swampland again. There is no accommodation available between Samfya and the Great North Road. One option is to spend a night at the bridge over the Luapula River. There is a police checkpoint here where you will probably be welcome and the mosquitoes will be glad to see you. Around 200km south from Samfya there’s another recommended detour – to the David Livingstone memorial. Though the memorial itself is nothing special, the small road south from the memorial back to the Great North Road is one of Zambia’s great bike roads, skimming the edge of Lavushi Manda National Park. This road meets with the Great North Road some 20km north from Kanona. There’s a guest house in Kanona, but don’t expect proper food. If you’re heading south to Lusaka from here, its only 64km to Serenje where great food can be found for the first time probably since Mfue. From Serenje back to Lusaka (either direct or with the detour from Mkushi to Kabwe) is easy compared with the challenges of the north!
Other routes
There is considerable potential for cycling also in the northern part of Zambia’s western protrusion, heading up to Solwezi, Mwinilunga and then down to the village of Zambezi and eventually Mongu. This is another virtually unvisited area.
Bicycles
A strong and reliable bicycle is essential for traveling the minor bush roads of Zambia. Roads can be very rough so strong wheels and pannier racks should be a priority. Pannier racks made from tubular steel can be repaired in most large villages and towns. A front rack with a shelf as opposed to a low-rider type rack is more suitable as low mounted panniers will snag often. Thorns are plentiful meaning a suitable tire with Kevlar beading is best.
Spare bike parts are not available anywhere in Zambia, the only exceptions being low quality inner tubes and tires suitable for 26” wheels. Importing any bicycle part into Zambia using couriers will attract duty, regardless of the intended use of the part. It is essential that suitable spare parts and tools be carried, including a spare tire and tubes, chains, spokes, cassette lock-ring tool and chain-whip, brake and gear cables, brake pads, cable ties. The quantity and number of spares clearly should reflect the trip duration. Due to the sand and dust chain life is relatively modest; expect no more than 4,000 km per chain before cassette and chainrings start to wear excessively. Light oil for the chain applied daily provides the necessary lubrication while limiting the build-up of dust and sand.
Comments
There is no doubt that Zambia is a challenging cycling destination and any trip into the Zambian bush should not be taken lightly. Local people will always be surprised to see a tourist on a bicycle, but providing you treat people respectfully and (most importantly) smile, then you will be made to feel welcome. You are likely to return from a Zambian adventure with a new understanding of the problems facing Africa and pondering how, despite the poverty and hardships, people remain so happy.
Links of Interest:
Regional Resourses:
Botswana
Dem. Rep of Congo
Malawi
Mozambique
Tanzania
Zaire
Zimbabwe
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