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Pinar
del Rio
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Saturday and Sunday |
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The
is no way to get a better feel for a culture than by eliminating the
barriers between it and you. The lesson is particularly strong in Cuba on
the weekend. The entire roadside, village and town character changes on
Saturday and Sunday. Had we been in a bus, or even bicycling on the
autopista, we would have missed so much. This drives home that "the mode is
the message". If you want a true people-to-people experience the bicycle provides
excellent opportunities. |
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It's
the weekend so it is fitting that we see a
little of the religions of Cuba: Christianity, baseball and rocking chairs. As we passed
through towns, the churches were open and the parishioners were filing in and out. In the
town squares and sandlots baseballs were being thrown, caught and batted. |
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| There was a lot of selling from bikes: garlic, onions, bread | ||
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| There was a lot of just bicycle riding. | ||
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![]() Eastern
Pinar del Rio Province has large, populated, flat areas, that aren't common in
the north and west of the province. This is likely a key factor in the higher
bicycle use to be see here. The
more regular use of bicycles in the area then helps account for the moderate flow of customers to the
ponchera (puncture fixer, tire repair). No service cost more than
US$0.50. |
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![]() And
there were other chores on the list of weekend task; mowing the lawn,
hauling water, house maintenance and other work.Shopping is a significant obligation of the weekend. But the markets look as much like social events as they do retail exercises. |
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![]() ![]() Passing
a house on the road, there was the distinctive clang of a hammer striking steel.
With a second look, there was a
blacksmith forging away, under the tree behind the house. As we approached, he stopped
working and systematically laid out a display of his craftsmanship. We had
no horse so I think at least part of the
message was the uniformity of each pair of horseshoes. Each pair was nearly
identical. |
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During
our visit and discussion with the blacksmith, a customer arrived. Their
discussion seemed to be as much social, as it was about a blacksmithing job that
needed to be done.Just down the road, men were using the time to visit the barber. In keeping with the tenor of the day it was a social as it was productive (sorry I missed the picture.) |
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![]() ![]() In
the middle of a path, some
kids were very focused on a game of marbles. It looked like it had been
going for a while, I watch for a while, and there was no indication that it
was going to end soon.Others used the free time to visit, or to enjoy the beauty of their garden from the comfort of a rocking chair. |
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![]() The
pigs (left) and goats (right) grazing on the road side probably didn't know
that it was the weekend by they exhibited about the same intensity of life. |
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![]() ![]() Countless
other bits of information, patterns and observations can be acquired just by
slowing down: The organic farm with its raised beds, home
shrines both in folk art styles and more classical christian, a grape arbor built up and over a roof, a garden that
specifically grows vegetables for schools, hospitals and social welfare
agencies, an America kestrel observing the landscape from a telephone wire,
and so much more. |
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Rocking
the rural roads. It is as beautiful as it looks, and more interesting than is
conveyed by the photos. We would have covered one-tenth of the distance every
hour, if we
had stopped and scrutinized every location and activity of interest. |
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![]() ![]() It looked like a slow day at the Complejo Gastronomico (left), but it was late for breakfast and still too early for lunch. Paladar (private restaurant) (right), with a classy decor of black and white linens, was at the very edge of San Cristobal. It served excellent meals for about $10 per person. |
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![]() A
caged bird -- it didn't sing. (I am running out of things to say.)The end pieces of the bird gage to the right are the fan-blade guards. The fan probably broke and the guards were stripped off and repurposed to serve the birds. |
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