Andes to Amazon  
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Dispatch 8 - Puyo
  Ecuador: Banos to Puyo road (2012)


Ecuador: Banos to Puyo road (2001)To hear some Ecuadorians talk about it, Ecuador is suppose to be the greatest bicycling anywhere in the world and Banos to Puyo is supposed to be the best bicycle ride in Ecuador. I am all for national pride, and while Ecuador has some outstanding features for bicycling, I am not sure I would necessarily agree with either assertion.
Ecuador: volcanoe sign
  Ecuador: Banos to Puyo bicycle route (Ciclovia) Between 2005-10 the route was significantly improved were made for bicycling.  Prior to the improvements there was one, at times very narrow dirt road for all of the traffic.  The main element of the improvements was the construction of a half dozen tunnel and many miles new roads for motor vehicle.  This left the old trail on the edge of the canyon exclusively for bicyclists and pedestrians.  I was also improved as well with better drainage, signage and an assortment of hard riding surfaces.
Ecuador: sign on Ciclovia with points of interest
  Ecuador, Rio Pastaza Canyon, Diablo falls Banos to Puyo is probably prettier on a prettier day.  When I have been there it has always been heavy gray and overcast most of the day and sprinkling or pouring a lot of it.  Whether the moisture was coming from the top, the bottom or the sides, it kept us damp.  Because part of the route is dirt, bodies and equipment get a gray clay veneer by the time we reached Puyo. 
Ecuador, Rio Pastaza Canyon, cable car
  Ecuador, Rio Pastaza Canyon What is interesting and nice about the leg? The Rio Pastaza Canyon: the river itself; waterfalls coming off of both walls of the valley, including over the road; raging rivers, fueled by the heavy over night down pours, cascading out of the side valleys; unlighted tunnels; a hydro electric dam and power station; Ecuador's longest cable car suspended hundreds of feet above the Rio Pastaza; and the nearly continuous decent for 20 km.
Ecuador, Rio Pastaza Canyon, hydro-electric dam
  Ecuador, Rio Pastaza Canyon, Rio Verde With the decent the climate and environment changed; the temperature got warmer, the humidity went up and the vegetation was more lush. It was starting to feel tropical.   The setting, vegetation, small town architecture and speed of life all evoked memories of rural Cuba.

The first major town in the more tropical zone is Shell. It is said to be name after the Royal Dutch Shell oil company.  Connecting the dots, it was probably founded during the exploration for petroleum (1920-1940).  The boom died until the current oil boom in Oriente, which started in the 1970s.

Ecuador, Rio Pastaza Canyon, Bust of Richard Spruce, explorer
  Ecuador, Puyo, main street As the Pastaza river emerges from the foot of the eastern slope of the Andes the land becomes more rolling, the rivers drop less quickly and become less angry -- almost smooth for sections.  The commercial center for the region is el Puyo or just Puyo (poncho). Ecuador, Puyo, main street
  Ecuador, Puyo, public art

Ecuador, Puyo, Universidad Estatal Amazonica

Ecuador, Puyo, public artLike many towns in Ecuador, Puyo has added some new class in the first decade of the millennium.  The economy as represented in the retail streets look healthier (more diverse, more range and high quality), there is quality public art (photo left: day and night), more cultural institutions (like the museum described below), moreEcuador, Puyo, church restaurants with a wider range of dishes (to the right is a sample menu), park development (see below) and in the case of Puyo, a new university campus (left). Ecuador, Puyo, ice cream shop

Ecuador, Puyo, restaurant menu board

  Ecuador, Puyo, museum, pottery In the center of Puyo is a small, efficient Ethno Archeological Museum.  There is not a lot of explanatory text, but it has exhibits of traditional pottery (left), stone tools (right), butterflies and spiders (right), anaconda (snake) skins (below, right), and shelters from local ethnic groups (below), which are filled with various items of material culture, presumably from the respective ethnic groups.  There is no admission fee so it is always worth a look. Ecuador, Puyo, museum, stone tools
  Ecuador, Puyo, museum, Sapara ethnic display  Ecuador, Puyo, museum, Quichua / Kichwa ethnic display  Ecuador, Puyo, museum, Huaorani ethnic display Ecuador, Puyo, museum, anaconda skins (snakes) Ecuador, Puyo, museum, butterfly and spider exhibit
  Ecuador, Puyo, public art Ecuador, Puyo, river trailA small river by the same name runs through Puyo.  The uplands have been developed into a park with public art, a riverside trail (bicycle prohibited), an ethno botanical garden, restaurants and up-scale hotels.  If you visit the botanical garden with a sore, the director will help you purchase a natural antiseptic lotion to treat it with. Ecuador, Puyo, ethnobotany, antiseptic traditional medicine
  While there is not much Western civilization beyond Puyo there are a number of interesting indigenous ethnic groups that can be enriching destinations for the engaged traveler who wants to make the effort.  Some of these are south of Puyo. There are a couple of profile here: One to the Shuer people around Paloma and Otto, and the other to Pastazas Quichua people in Canelos.  
  Previous dispatchNext dispatch Hwy south of Puyo
                  Next dispatch Paloma / Otto
         Next dispatch Canelos


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