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Pichincha / Imbabura |
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Ibike Ecuador |
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Dispatch
1 - Quito |
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Quito is located in a high valley along
the Pan-American highway (Ave of the Volcanoes), among several active
volcanoes. Volcano Cotopaxi is seen in the photo on the right.
It's worth at least a couple days of exploration. One of
its assets is its natural history and dramatic setting. From various vantage
points, to the west is the Volcano Pinchincha, to the south is Volcano
Cotopaxi, to the east is Volcano Cayambe and to the north is Volcano
Cotacachi. Periodically some of these still come to life.
From Parc Metropolitano there are not only great views, but also
excellent bike trails and walking routes. |
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First impressions of Quito, the capitol of Ecuador are that it is a
clean, relaxed, comfortably prosperous
city:
- People are well dressed; cloths are clean, no rips, mostly
leather shoes, plenty of suits and ties for men and skirts and
nylons for women.
- Among the shops you can find every consumer good (home
appliances, clothes, furniture, shoes, glasses, beauty aids, etc.)
that you would at a Wal-Mart, only they are spread among intimate,
distinctive, small boutiques, not lined up in the long isles of a
box store.
- It is a city where people do a lot of walking so shoe stores
packed with choices are a common sight.
- There are a lot of restaurants and small eateries so enough
people have disposable income to keep these establishments in
business and don't have to eat at home or carry their meals.
- The are plenty of service sector business as well, like copy
centers, banks, internet cafes, travel agents, hair dressers, and
photo studios.
- The streets are filled with traffic, mostly small sedans and
pickup trucks. The expensive car of choice is the
out-of-scale oversized Sport Utility Vehicle (SUV). The
sidewalks are also full and buses are crowded with people
heading to work, school, markets and recreation. But there are
almost no bicycles.
- There is a lot of construction around the city and money is
being spent on good design and architecture. This is
complimented by a good deal of contemporary public art.
- The parks are well maintained and around the city, both the
parks and streets are generally clean.
Contradicting this image, the favorite local topic of conversation
seems to be how bad the economy is. It may be weak, but it
hardly has the hallmarks of being bad. Here are a couple indicators of not everything being
rosy for everyone:
- Street vendors with small stock and inexpensive goods or food
wait for the next customer, often women with small children at
their feet.
- Guards at the door of most commercial properties.
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Walking or cycling into the neighborhood and reading the signs over
the shops and looking at the street life is full of contrasts and curiosities.
Besides of the geography of the city, Quito has what looks to be very
basic housing with million dollar views.
Even without expending so much energy the streets of Quito can keep
you amused. One of the prime menu items is Quito is a wide
variety of succulent
fresh squeezed fruit juice drinks. Find the right restaurant with outdoor
tables, order a fresh fruit juice and watch the parade of beautiful
faces that pass.
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Here we have a couple of extremes of Quito land
use. On the right is a very human scale, walking friendly street with
color and plantings. On the wide boulevard with narrow sidewalks and KFC
and McDonald's facing each other across the intersection. |
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Food is very important to bicyclist. So
important that they often photograph it for memories.
P.S. On several consecutive days the comment was
made that this is the best meal yet. It is always a question whether the
food is getting better or the cyclists are getting hungrier by meal time.
Even if the later is true, we ate a lot of superb meals in Ecuador. |
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The cultural and human history can rival the natural beauty. On a walking
tour of the old town it seems like it takes a half hour to tell the
story of every block, building and plaza -- twice as long for every
church, of which there are countless. There are a lot of
stories about dead
people, but the district is still alive today. It is packed with
Ecuadorians and in many of the plazas there is entertained by
local performers. The city is made more interesting and has more
texture and color because a lot of people still wear traditional
cloths. Left: A couple rowing in the lagoon in Parque
Alameda, Ouito. |
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Monument Virgin of Quito, Panecillo viewpoint. The
sculpture is made with 7000 pieces of aluminum. |
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La Compania de Jesus Church from San Francisco
Church and across Independence Square. |
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Main
alter of the Church of La Merced. Woodcarvings by Bernardo Legarda.Far
Left: Senor of Devine Love, Church of La Merced |
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Left: Interior of the Church of Sagrario.Right:
Front of the National Basilica |
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There are a number of good museums and galleries in town. One
with a particular Ecuadorian flavor is the Guayasamin. Besides
having an excellent collection of his paintings and sculptures, it has
pre-Colombian pieces and art from the Spanish Catholic colonial
period. |
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On weekends there is original art for sale and live
music Parque El Ejido.
Socializing, relaxing, eating ice cream,
Ecuadorian
3 on 3 volleyball, and traditional music and dance is the order of the day in
the park on Sunday afternoon. |
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One
of the very nice assets of Quito is Parque Metropalitano. Its forest is
intended to be the lungs (or air filter) of Quito, but evidently this aspect is
under threat from development in the park.
Even
so it offers great views, a variety of trails for bicycling and jogging, kids
play areas and a general opportunity to escape the city and relax.. |
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