Ibike Korea People-to-People Program
Photo essay:
Seomjin River - Ssanggye-sa
At
the foot of the valley leading to Ssanggye-sa (temple) is Hwagea Village. It has
far more restaurants and retail than the population in the immediate area would
seem to be able to sustain. Its historical explanation is more complex, but the
strongest argument for its current resurrection and vitality is its role as a stopping
place for visitors to Ssanggye-sa (temple) (8km into the mountains), the Jirisan
Mountains, and
the beautiful nearby tea county.
In
the past, Hwagae Market ranked 7th in the country as a trade center since
the 1770’s. It was revived and restored at the turn of the millennium, and was dedicated as a
national arts market in 2016.
Historically, it served as a link between the traditional slash-and-burn famers of the Jirisan Mountains, coastal people of Yeosu and Namhae (50-80km down river) who traded their dried laver and anchovies, and landsmen of Deagu and Yeongcheon (150km NE, as the crow flies) who sold tobacco and cigarettes.
Part of its historical reputation rests on the romance, matchmaking, and marriage negotiations that took place here, for the young people of the region. The flowers of the area for which it is also renowned bolster this facet.
On market days performances by singers, who sang love
songs, and playful acts of clowns, supplemented the good-natured haggling and
bustle of the market.
People long for Hwagae Market even when it was not open because of the fine foods such as good makgeolli (rice wine), grilled fish, as well as deodeok (root), doragi (bellflower) and shoots, that were served in the restaurants.
The
story of the local tea goes back to Daeryeom,
a monk, who brought tea plants (related to the camellia) back from Tang China (828)
to the slopes of Jirisan Mountain where it was first planted. The tea
produced in the Hwagae region is said to be the best tea in the land and was
offered to kings during the Goryeo and Joseon periods. There are still has a number of tea farms
in the area and a tea museum -- but clearly the current social drink of
preference now-a-days in South Korea is coffee.
Ssanggye-sa (temple) was founded by two priest,
Sambop and Daebi, in 723. They brought the remains (or embalmed head) of
Master Hyeneung, the Sixth Patriarch of the Zen sect, from China. Sambop had a
dream in which an elderly monk instructed him to placed the remains "in a fragrant
valley where the flowers of arrow root
blooms under the snow."
Iljumun, the first gateway between the earthly
world and the world of Buddha, implies a precept to practice the right way
with constancy and self-enlightenment. Preceding the gate is a stream and
bridge, which is cleansing and part of the transition process.
Continue
along the path and you will reach Geumgangmun, the second
gate, symbolizes the protection of Buddhism and the
cleansing of passing people of the pollution of the mundane world.
Chenwangmun, the third gate, honors the four Devas.
As devotees of Buddha, these figures guard Buddhist cannons and are the
protective deities over monks and the faithful. The Jiguk Deva (lute) rules over the east, the Gwangmok Deva (dragon) over the west, the
Jeungjang Deva (sword) over the south and the Damun Deva (pagoda) over the
north. Each has a different weapon and unique
characteristics. At the center of the four quarters is Sumisan. Sumisan is where Buddha lives -- a temple is symbolic of Sumisan,
therefore, if one passes this gate he or she is likely to enter the world of
Buddha.
Nine-story stone pagoda. Enshrined in this
pagoda are three Sarira (mineral pieces left in the ashes of the cremation of a
Buddhist master) of Sakyamuni, which were brought from India by Priest Kosan on
his pilgrimage to Buddhist holy sites. 
Stone lanterns illuminate
the dark regions of a temple and its light symbolize the truth of Buddha which
leads humanity down the path of good. In addition, the flame represents
Sumisian where Buddha resides, and the lantern oil represents the wide sea. The
lantern, always representative of Buddha, is erected in front of Buddhist
shrines, Daeungjon, together with the pagoda.
unique to Korean temples. Ssanggyesa's buildings are arranged in order of rank beginning with Iljumun,
Geumgangmun, Chenwangmum, Pallyeongnu and Daeungjeon. Myeongbujeon is
located on the same line with Daeungjeon and shares an almost equal level of
importance. Such an arrangement is the results of mix of Othodox Buddhism with
the traditional folk beliefs in Myeongbu and Yaksa.At the center of Myeongbujeon, there is Jijangbosal, who is said to deliver creatures from the underworld. To his left and right, there are ten kings who passed judgements on people's fate, befitting their deeds of good and evil.
Nahanjeon
is where 16 Nahan (arhats) are enshined. Each reached Buddhahood by
eliminating all their worldly desires and becoming enlightened to the principles
of the world. A Buddha statue takes his seat at the center of the shrine and the
Nahan are arrayed on either side of him. The shrine was constructed in
840.
Scenes and details from a side temple at Ssanggyesa.
Presumed to have been built during the Goryeo
Period, this statue of Buddha carved on the rock surface is noted for its
peculiar look. It has a big head, plump face, hands covered with the
sacerdotal robe, and long ears hanging to his shoulders. The overall look
is benevolent and simple.The backdrop and beauty of Ssanggye-sa comes from the towering bamboo forest on some of its edges.
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